Getting There

The easiest way to get to the Tarija is via neighboring Argentina. San Salvador de Jujuy, in the northwest, has the nearest airport, with one scheduled two-hour flight a day from Buenos Aires. From there, it's a three- to four-hour drive over good tarmac roads through sugar cane plantations and citrus groves to the Bolivian border near the town of Bermejo, and then another three hours over increasingly poor dirt roads to the virtually imperceptible village of Santa Clara.

Doing It With Help

My trip was arranged by Southern Cross Outfitters, which is currently the only guiding operation with access to the restricted waters of the Tariquia Reserve. Patagonia-based head guide Gustavo Hiebaum and his colleague German Finara are highly competent, professional, and extremely good company. Alejandro Montiel was all of these things, and also intimately acquainted with the river and the best methods of catching big dorado. Particularly important, perhaps, are his established relationships with the various representatives of Bolivian officialdom, and his evangelizing commitment to conservation of all kinds, and in particular to catch-and-release fishing. This is, however, a new venture for Southern Cross Outfitters, and something of a work in progress. They have plans for making the journey less arduous by flying clients into San Ramon de la Nueva Oran, the closest sizable Argentine town to the Bolivian border, thus avoiding the dull drive up from Jujuy, and for upgrading the currently rather basic cabin. It is unlikely, however, that it will ever be a luxury resort, and nobody should go there unless they intend to fish.

Seasons and Weather

The dorado season on the Tarija runs from June through November — winter and spring in the southern tropics. Temperatures in June normally peak at around 90 degrees, although it was cooler during our trip. The humidity is surprisingly comfortable during the days, once the mist has burned off, and very high during the cool nights. Later in the season, the weather becomes warmer and stickier, and it is important to make sure you have adequate drinking-water supplies to avoid dehydration.

Typical tropical fishing attire is perfect, with the supplement of a fleece or other warm top for the evenings and early morning. Only your foolish writer wore waders for even one day, during which, in spite of the fact that they were among the lightest avail­able, he was slow-cooked until he almost expired. Wet wading is the thing here, so take fast-drying pants and appropriate footwear to deal with the sometimes slippery rocks. A good hat and sunscreen are essential.

Medical Preparations

You will be in the tropics and some distance from medical help or from any way of even calling for it. Get a yellow-fever shot, and protect yourself against malaria. Carry the sensible traveler's range of off-the-shelf medications, and ask your doctor for a prescription for a course of antidiarrheal antibiotics.

Cost

Southern Cross Outfitters (248-626-3101; www.southerncrossoutfitters.com) charges $300 per night, per person. This fee includes lodging, all meals, guiding, and transportation from and to the airport in San Salvador de Jujuy.

Julio Mazzoli of Southern Cross says that he has consistently found the best airfares to Argentina through a travel agent named J. C. Rivero at First In Service Travel in New York City (212-398-6555, Ext. 272). Mr. Rivero specializes in travel to South America, and he knows all the tricks to cutting costs. In general, you should expect to pay between $800 to $1,200 to get to Jujuy during the fishing season, depending on your departure city.

-N. J. R.