BRITISH COLUMBIA steelheading. The words alone conjure up images of wild rivers, spectacular mountain scenery, and monster steelhead turning to the fly. And for good reason. No doubt about it, a fly fisher’s best shot for tying into a huge wild steelhead is to head for the rivers of western Canada. Storied rivers such as the Dean, Thompson, and Frazier are legendary, but the mother of all B.C. steelhead rivers is the Skeena.

One of the longest undammed rivers in the world, the Skeena begins high in the coastal mountains of the Spasizi Plateau and makes its way more than 350 miles to the ocean port of Prince Rupert. As this enormous drainage follows its course to the sea, it picks up more than 30 tributaries, some of which are sizable rivers in their own right. Three of these tributaries — the Bulkley, the Babine, and the Kispiox — account for the majority of the steelhead caught in the system because they afford the angler an incredible amount of fly-friendly water and support the highest number of returning fish. The prime fishing time for all three is early September through late October. During this period, the odds of hooking a once-in-a-lifetime steelhead are higher on these waters than they are anywhere else on the planet.

The Rivers

Winding its way through more than 80 miles of patchwork farmland, forest, rugged canyons, and a few small towns, the Bulkley may have more impeccable steelhead water than any other river in the world. Its many long smooth runs make you wonder if it were designed by a Spey angler, with some stretches so smooth that you rarely have to mend.

Two separate systems, the Bulkley and the Morice, make up the longest and largest of the Skeena tributaries. Together they account for more than 40 percent of all steelhead returning to the Skeena system. Most of this watershed has easy access. A good portion of the upper river is within easy reach of the Yellowhead Highway and adjacent logging roads. Below the town of Smithers, the river is less accessible and narrows into canyons and heavier water. While the Bulkley is not known for having the largest fish in the Skeena system, its specimens average more than 10 pounds, with plenty of tankers in the 15-to-20-pound class.

Often challenging, crowded, and occasionally intimidating, the Kispiox has staggering potential. Despite fewer fish, tougher wading, and frequent blow-outs, the Kispiox has an almost cultlike following of dedicated anglers for one reason alone: It likely holds claim to the largest race of steelhead in the world. Although numbers of returning steelhead are much lower than that of the Bulkley or Babine, the fish of the Kispiox are consistently large. In 1963, Karl Mauser landed the current world-record fly-caught steelhead of 33 pounds. Since that time, a good many larger fish have been caught and released. In terms of sheer mass, these are the steelhead against which all others are measured.

The Kispiox meanders through boggy camps, logged forests, and valley farms. It ends its journey by joining the Skeena at the native village of Kispiox. A public road parallels most of the river, and there are several undeveloped campsites maintained by the government. Several lodges are situated along the river.

When you’re fishing the Kispiox, make sure that your terminal tackle is up to the task. Ten-pound test will not hold most of these legendary fish. Although Kispiox steelhead will come to a skating dry, fishing down and deep is the preferred method. Often muddy and easily blown out, this river lends itself to big, dark flies. Most of the runs contain a lot of structure, so take your time and cover the water well. The reward could be a 30-pound steelhead.

When we dream of the perfect wilderness steelhead river, the one with deep forests and distant towering peaks, we are dreaming of the Babine. And while many suspect that the Kispiox has the largest race of steelhead, the Babine boasts more steelhead over 20 pounds than anywhere else on the planet. Due to government policies of limiting road construction and commercial development, the Babine also has some of the healthiest returns of any fishery. These same policies limit access and account for only three existing camps.

The only other access to the river is a long, bumpy logging road from Smithers to where the river leaves Babine Lake. Here you will find a trail that follows two miles of the upper river, but don’t expect to have it to yourself. Local anglers and bears frequent this area, especially while salmon and steelhead are present.

The river itself consists of every type of water conceivable. There are long runs for skating and deep slots for dredging heavy sinking tips. Structure runs the full spectrum from bedrock to gravel. Wading can be challenging, and high banks and brush limit casting. Considering the number of fish, and the favorable conditions, every fly technique is productive. Many 20-pounds-plus fish have been taken on a skater, and 30-pound fish are pulled from runs every year.

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